Basic Professional French Cooking
On www.melaniff.com since 2016
Introduction to Basic Techniques
Session 5
1.Techniques of Preserving Food
A Brief History
Antiquity - The oldest processes for preserving foodstuffs are by dehydration, smoking and salting. The ancient Greeks and Romans preserved wine and grains in earthen jars and silos.
In the 7th century the use of alcohol and vinegar as preservatives was discovered,
In 1809, Nicholas Appert invented long-term preservation by bottling in sterilized jars.
In 1868, Charles Tellier preserved food by controlling its atmosphere through refrigeration.
In 1870, Louis Pasteur developed pasteurization.
In 1929, Clarence Birdseye invented the technique of deep freezing.
Today, the methods of sterilization can be divided into two basic categories, by heat and by chilling.
A.By Heat
1.Dehydration (drying)
Dehydration is a slow process in a controlled atmosphere. The absence of water suppresses and bacteriological activities.
Sun - raisins, prunes, dried beans
Oven - powdered milk, mushrooms
Drying House - sausages
Smoking - ham, meats, fish
2.Pasteurization
Liquid is heated to 180 F / 80 C to destroy disease-causing bacteria, then rapidly cooled down. It can be stored at 39 F / 4 C for a limited time. Used primarily for milk and cream. Ultra High Temperature is a variation on pasteurization in which milk of another liquid is brought to 300 F / 150 C in less that one second by injection of pressurized steam. UHT kills almost all microbes so it allows for very long storage, even at room temperature, but it leaves a slight aftertaste.
3.Sterilization
Microbes are destroyed by bringing the food, and the container it will be preserved in, to a high temperature with steam, dry heat or boiling. The container is then sealed against air and humidity, and can be stored long-term. Used primarily to can fruits and vegetables.
B. By Chilling
1.Refrigeration
Products are preserved at 39 F / 4 C. The cold inhibits biological activity without stoping it. The cool air should be allowed to circulate freely around the products, and humidity should be controlled if possible. Storage time is variable, depending on the item being held.
2.Freezing
Products preserved below 32 F / o C. Freezing is more effective if items are tightly packed into a freezer - air circulation is not necessary. Most products can be stored for a moderately long period, but freezing causes water to expand and rupture cell walls, which may affect texture.
3.Deep Freeze
Products are immediately cooled to -40 F / -40 C and held at -4 F / -20 C. This method lowers the risk of cell breakage, so it is better for meats, fruits, cooked preparations, etc. Dome products can be stored up to one year.
4.Freeze-Drying
This involves total isolation of all humidity. Once humidity is removed through repeated temperature changes, the freeze-dried product does not need refrigeration.
Product is quick frozen to -31 F / -35 C.
First dehydration to 14 F / -10 C.
Second dehydration to -76 F / -60 C.
Third, product is warmed from -31F / -35 C to 14 F / -10 C and the water vapor freezes on the sides of the machine at -76 F / -60 C. Used for coffee, potatoes, industrial products.
2.The Mushroom
The mushroom is a fungus which contains no chlorophyll and exists in many species. Some are edible, others toxic and even poisonous.
Composition of the Common White Mushroom
Water - 89.13%
Fat - 0.25%
Carbohydrates - 5.19%
Traces of salts and Albumin
Waste - 21%
Use in Cooking
1.Raw
Mushrooms can be sliced or julienned and seasoned with lemon juice and salt and pepper, served alone of in a mixed salad.
2.Cooked
Mushrooms can be poached, grilled, sautéed, chopped in duxelles, stuffed (whole caps, stems removed), cooked a la grecque (in white wine and olive oil), cut in quarters, sliced, julienned, etc.
3.Dried Vegetables
Dried Vegetables are always eaten cooked, Using dried vegetables within one year of their harvest is recommended. Don’t combine vegetables of different ages as they’ll cook at different rates. The basic classifications of dried vegetables are beans, lentils and split peas. There are many different types within each category.
1.Soaking
It is not always necessary to pre-soak fried vegetables. Lentils virtual never require it because their small size makes them cook quickly. Split peas are usually not soaked, they are softened by blanching in co;d water brought to a boil then drained but not refreshed. Beans need only be soaked if the product is old or of bad quality. Soaking should not last longer than three hours or the lime and iron content of the water may harden the outer casing, making the beans take even longer to cook. Also, prolonged soaking risks provoking fermentation.
2.Cooking Beans and Lentils
-Sort through the vegetables to remove any broken pieces or foreign matter.
-Rinse well in cold water.
-Soak if necessary, them drain. Always use fresh water to cook the vegetables.
-Cover with cold water, two to three times the volume of the product.
-Bring to a boil and skim.
-Add aromatic garniture, such as an onion struck with cloves, carrots, a branch of celery, and a bouquet garni. Don’t add salt at this point. it will toughen the vegetables.
-Cook slowly in a covered pot. Keep an eye on the amount of water to make sure it is not all absorbed. Add more if necessary.
-Season with rock salt near the end of the cooking period.
-A perfectly cooked vegetable will break open easily when pinched between the thumb and index finger.
3.Serving Variations
-Monter au beurre, add fresh parsley.
-With a compound butter, such as Maitre d’Hotel (butter with chopped parsley and lemon juice) or Bretonne (butter with chopped parsley, lemon juice, tomato concassé and garlic).
-With a vinaigrette dressing and fines herbes (finely chopped parsley, tarragon and chervil) as a first coarse.
4.Cooking Split Peas
-Sweat a mirepoix of carrots, onions, green leek leaves and unsmoked fatty bacon.
-Add the split peas and moisten generously with cold water.
-Season with rock salt and a small bouquet garni, plus 1 clove of garlic.
-Cook slowly in a covered pot.
RECIPES