Basic Professional French Cooking
On www.melaniff.com since 2016
Introduction to Basic Techniques
Session 8
1.The Potato
The potato is a vegetable that is mostly composed of water, and rich in carbohydrates, potassium and nitrogen. There at two basic categories of potatoes, mealy and waxy. The different types should be prepared differently to take advantage of their natural characteristics.
Do not use potatoes that have germinated and sprouted, and remove any green areas. These potatoes may contain toxic alkaloids that could be hazardous to consume.
Do not put potatoes into the refrigerator as starch will convert to sugars.
2.Deep Frying Potatoes
To deep fry is to submerge an item entirely in hot oil or other liquid fat until the item is cooked. The goal is to obtain a golden brown crust caused by coagulation of the external protein. Caramelization of the item’s natural juices and sugars transforms starch into dextrine. For this to occur, the item being fried must be quite dry on the surface. Potatoes can be fried uncoated, but moister items should first be dredged in flour, bread crumbs or butter. When fried properly, the other crust shall form immediately to prevent the item from absorbing oil. For this reason, deep frying is considered a dry heat method.
Deep frying can be done in an electric fryer, which allows for easy temperature control, or in a large, heavy pot. Don’t fill the pot more that halfway with oil, or it will overflow when the food is added. A frying basket should always be used so finished items can be easily lifted out of the oil. If the oil catches fire, never put water onto the fire. Turn off the flame and cover the pot with a metal tray or lid to smother the flames. If it continues to burn, call the fire department and use fire extinguisher intended for grease fires. Evacuate the area if necessary.
The fat can be a vegetable oil with a high smoke point and mild flavor such as peanut oil, or solid vegetable oil shortening designed for frying. Oil can be reused for some time, but it should be strained after each use and stored covered. Don’t mix old oil with fresh. Oil should no longer be used when it foams up, smells bad, darken in color, and its smoking point lowers. Frying strongly flavored foods, such as fish, can impart flavor to the oil, which will then be transferred to the next food in that oil. Avoid combining different types of oils, as they can foam up and cause fires. Also avoid overheating the oil, or preheating it too far in advance as this can cause it to decompose more quickly.
The oil should be a minimum of 6 to 8 cm deep. It must be completely hot before the items are added or they will absorb too much fat before cooking. The temperature desired depends on the item being cooked, but it should never exceed 424 F / 200 C. Always test the oil with one piece before adding an entire batch. When the oil is ready, the product being fried must be added in small quantities to prevent the oil temperature from dropping too much, and the oil should be able to circulate freely around each piece. Never salt the item before cooking, but do rinse it to remove excess starch and dry completely.
There are two basic frying techniques, one step and two step (a three step method is used only for pommes soufflés). In one step, the potatoes are fried completely at one temperature, usually at 375 - 400 F / 190 - 205 C.
In two step, the potatoes are first partially cooked, or poached, at 300 - 320 F / 150 - 160 C for about 5 to 6 minutes, depending on thickness. During this stage there should be no coloration. The potatoes are them finished at 350 F / 175 C to brown the outside quickly. This is usually done for thicker cuts, as it allows the inside to be fully cooked before the outside becomes too dark. After cooking, fried potatoes should be always be drained of paper towels to absorb excess grease, then salted and served hot.
Reasons for Failure:
-Potato slices were not properly washed, so excess starch interferes with cooking.
-Potato slices were wet when added to the oil.
-Oil was too cold so the potatoes absorbed too much oil before cooking.
-Oil was too hot so the potato exteriors burned before the insides cooked.
-Oil was poor quality or too old.
Pommes Soufflés, the three step method, are very dramatic. The are first cooked slowly for 6 to 7 minutes at 320 - 340 F / 160 - 170 C, until the swell slightly and float to the surface, They are drained, then put into hotter oil, 370 F / 190 C for 3 to 4 minutes. This will make them inflate, but the shouldn’t color at this point. Again, they are drained on absorbent paper. Keep them covered until ready to serve. Just before serving, place the potatoes one by one in 370 - 390 F / 190 - 200 C oil for a few seconds until brown and crisp. Drain, salt and serve immediately.
Fried Potato Shapes
One Step
Cheveux - Shoe strings, 7 cm X .5 mm
Pailles - Straws, 7 cm X 1 mm
Gaufrettes - Waffle chips, double sliced on mandoline
Chips - 1/2 mm thick, sliced on mandoline
Liard - 4 cm X 2 mm, thick, cut with round biscuit cutter and mandoline
Two Step
Allumettes - Match sticks, 7 cm X 5 mm
Mignonettes - 7 cm X 6 mm
Frites - French Fry, 7 cm X 8 mm - 1 cm
Pont-Neuf - Steak Fry, 7 cm X 1 cm
Three Step
Soufflés - 7 cm X 3 mm
3.Pommes Purées
Pommes Purées, mashed potatoes, can be served alone or used as the basis for a number of other dishes. The basic preparation is simply peeled potatoes cut into large pieces, covered with salted watered and boiled until tender, then passed through a sieve of food mill (never a food processor) and combined with milk and butter.
Variations:
Pommes Grantinées
Purée placed in a gratin dish, sprinkled with shredded cheese and melted butter and broiled in the oven or under the salamander until the cheese melts and browns.
Pommes Mont d’Or
Pommes Grantinées, with a liaison of egg yolk combined with the pommes purée
Pommes Mousseline
Pommes purée with crème fraiche
Pommes Duchesse, can be prepared either with regular pommes purées from boiled potatoes, or with potatoes that have been baked whole, then peeled and passed through a sieve or food mill. The purée should be dried out in the oven until it is proper consistency (this depends on what it will be used for), then combined with egg yolk and butter.
Variations:
Pommes Croquettes
Pommes Duchesse piped into logs 5 cm by 3 xm, breaded and deep fried.
Pommes Dauphine
Half Pommes Duchesse and half Pâté à Choux, formed into a quenelles and deep fried
4.Potato Taillage
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RECIPES